Yes, these are the max values, but it is almost proportional to the operating frequency.
QFN chips are actually easy to solder using an hot air station, and you can find good ones <$40 on Aliexpress:
Here are my recommendations, take them into consideration if you want, I am just trying to help and avoid you some very bad surprises.
Going down to 2.4V on a Lipo battery is really a bad idea, you will likely kill it very quickly, see:
A Lipo battery is considered empty at 3.0V, going below will destroy it, and the slope from 3.3V down to 3.0V is very steep, so a boost converter won’t be very useful in this (very short) area.
Instead of using a costly buck/boost DC/DC, you should rather try to get the best possible efficiency by using good power inductors and DC/DC chips, and TI ones are far from being the cheapest, consider MPS or Diodes Inc. brands instead.
Separate chips will always cost more and take mroe real estate than an integrated PMIC like the AXP203, and these chips have the advantage of featuring a nice power gauge (Coulomb counter) that will provide an accurate (not only voltage-based) remaining capacity indication, allowing you to get the most out of the battery much like a cell phone.
As for single-sided loading, it is also a very bad idea, since the V3s is MEANT to be used with double-sided components. If not, the 30+ required decoupling/bulk capacitors will be too far from power pins to be useful (considering the high power current draws) and will likely cause the V3s to work unreliably because of voltage droops under load…
You can always use spacers and/or isolation sheet to avoid short-circuits, and you can reduce PCB thickness down to 1.2 mm / 1.0 mm to compensate for the additional component height on the second side.